Gjoa Haven, Nunavut: A Community Profile |
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Gjoa Haven
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Shopping
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Restaurant
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Recreation
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Education
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Power Plant
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Municipal
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Arts/Crafts
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Health
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Fuel
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Religion
| Economy | Law and Order | Transportation | Drugs/Alcohol | Communications | History | Geography | Comments | Community |
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Gjoa Haven |
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The Northern |
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Qiqitak Co-op |
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Prices |
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Stores |
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Amundsen Hotel being painted Both places have a restaurant or eating facility just for guests. Local residents are not permitted to dine at the hotel unless they have a room. The daily rate for a room with three meals is $210 at the Amundsen Hotel and $170 at Mary's Inn. The cost is not a function of the quality of service, as much as it is supply and demand. These prices are on par with the costs at other Nunavut hotels. Most hotel guests are travelling on behalf of government or construction companies and the costs are borne by big business. The hotel industry is very seasonal in Nunavut. When the weather starts to warm up in April, contractors come around to look at projects or do some groundwork. As well government employees visit various Nunavut communities to introduce new community programs. The busy season lasts 6 months, until about October, when the weather cools - construction slows down, and government budgets are almost depleted. During the peak of the summer months both the Hotel and the B&B have been known to add extra bunks in each room to accommodate the overflow of construction workers, or a group of people in town for a conference. The hotel industry is subject to government rules and regulations. Hotel conditions vary from one community to another, but the nature of the industry is boom (in summer) and bust (in winter). Allowances are made as the alternative of sleeping in a snow bank is usually less palatable. |
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Recreation |
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For much of the year it is dark and cold outside and many people are unemployed during the winter months. Half the population of Gjoa Haven is under 18 years of age and typically the young get bored with nothing to do. To combat boredom and Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), which affects some people during the period of 24-hour darkness, most Nunavut communities have excellent recreational facilities. In Gjoa Haven we have a full size hockey arena and a school gym where basketball, volleyball and badminton tournaments take place - women, kids, elders, anyone and everyone is welcome to participate in various tournaments throughout the winter. Hockey is the most popular sport in Gjoa Haven, and many Gjoa Haven youth are excellent skaters and hockey players. Recreation is always important, and throughout the long arctic winter, it helps keep you healthy, both mentally and physically. |
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Other forms of recreation enjoyed in Gjoa Haven are feasts and dances, which take place throughout the year. Gjoa Haven residents take every opportunity to enjoy a feast or drum dance, and the functions are very sociable and a lot of fun. If a friend or relative comes to visit, the community will have a dance to honor their visit. At Christmas time, our community hall hosts a dance every night with games and activities for all ages, often going until 6:00 in the morning. Gjoa Haven is a dry community (no liquor) and all the social functions serve to exhibit the amicable and gregarious nature of our community. |
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When the summer solstice begins and we get sunshine 24 hours a day (around May 1st) the Hamlet of Gjoa Haven has a week of games and activities to celebrate the arrival of the summer sun. The community has various games and contests such as sled racing, Ski-Doo races, and igloo building contests. Everyone is welcome to participate and they have separate contests for boys and girls, men and ladies with cash prizes for each competition.
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During the summer months many Gjoa Haven residents enjoy boating and fishing. The community has a softball field, (more gravel than field) but for most residents, summer is a time to be out on the land and many people leave the community in June and return in August or September. Camping on the land during the summer is a traditional recreational pursuit as caribou, muskoxen, seals, geese and arctic char are in abundance. Many people like to hunt and fish, enjoy the traditional lifestyle and stock up on food for the winter.
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Quqshuun Illihakvik |
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Nunavut Arctic College boarded up during summer months |
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Schools and education came to Gjoa Haven as part of the government package of housing, social services, and a wage economy, along with centralization and urbanization and which many Inuit do not yet fully endorse. |
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The prevailing attitude towards school and education, along with other systemic factors, is reflected in the statistic that less than 10% of Inuit students throughout Nunavut graduate from high school. At Quqshuun Illihakvik 42 students started kindergarten in Sept 1999, while only five students graduated from Grade 10 the previous year. Language immersion is another issue. In Gjoa Haven Inuktitut immersion is the norm for Grades K-2, after that it's English. The Nunavut Government is now considering a policy to incorporate Inuktitut imersion into the curriculum of all Nunavut Schools, for K-4. Since 85% of Nunavut's population are Inuit, the immersion program will have a big impact in preserving Inuit language and culture. |
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Power Plant Our community is highly dependent on power, moreso for heat than light. During the winter months if the power fails, you can feel your house get cold within 20-30 minutes. Each home and building has an oil-heated furnace, which needs power to operate, and with a power failure the temperature inside the home drops quickly. The danger in losing heat/power is freeze-up. In all our homes we have water lines connecting the water tank to the sink, toilet, shower, washer, etc, and if the power is gone for 4-6 hours these lines will freeze. Similarly in our grocery store, with a prolonged power failure all the canned goods, soda pop, fruit and vegetables, would freeze, and in general a loss of power for more than six hours or so depending on the outside temperature, would be a disaster for the community. For that reason the NTPC (Nunavut Territory Power Corp) has trained people in Gjoa Haven and in every Nunavut community, to avert prolonged power outages. If the problem is of a more serious nature, the Power company will fly in expert technicians within hours to correct the problem. |
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Municipal Services |
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Hamlets across Nunavut are core-funded by Nunavut Government, under a formula based on population, need and other variables, and Hamlet is mandated to deliver municipal services to the community. Although the population of Gjoa Haven is about 1,000 people, the cost of maintaining local infrastructure is high. The Hamlet's annual budget can be as high as $10-12 million. Some communities are 'Municipalities', some are 'Hamlets' and Iqaluit is a 'Town'. The Hamlet plays an important role in Gjoa Haven, as it does in all the Nunavut communities. The federal government disperses its transfer payment to Nunavut Government in Iqaluit, who then disperses a percentage to communities for municipal services. An elected Hamlet Council makes the decisions on community needs and the SAO and staff administer to those needs. Every home, school, and building in Gjoa Haven that uses water has a water tank built inside the premises in a heated area and a sewage tank, usually located under the house with a heat trace to keep sewage from freezing. Hamlet water trucks fill up water tanks three times a week, and sewage trucks pump-out everyone's sewage three times a week. We also have garbage pick-up twice a week. Because of the logictics, the cost of this service can be $400 per household per month, but it is heavily subsidized by Nunavut Government and the average homeowner in Gjoa Haven would pay $30 - $35 a month for municipal services. We use a lake nearby for fresh water with a pumphouse to load the trucks, a sewage lagoon located one or two km out of town, for dumping sewage. We also have an open pit away from the community for all the community garbage. Hamlet also is in charge of community by-laws. By-laws deal with building permits, land usage, care and handling of dogs, garbage pick-up, snow clearing and many administrative processes within the Hamlet structure. One by-law states that children under 16 have to be at home or in their house by 10:00 PM during the winter, to encourage early retirement on school nights. A siren sounds at 10 PM and the by-law officer will drive around the hamlet ushering kids home, although sometimes it becomes more of a game of hide-and-seek. Another by-law states that husky dogs have to be tied down. On a first offence the owner is fined, on a second offence the dog may be shot. When huskies get loose they sometimes form a pack and have been known to attack a child or elderly person. |
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Arts/Crafts |
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As an industry, the arts and crafts sector has been a roller coaster over the past ten years. The prices carvers earn for the same type of carvings will range from $200 - $500 throughout the year, based on local supply and demand and the volatile worldwide demand for Inuit arts and crafts. Due to the nature of the industry, the financial benefits accrued through the sale of carvings does not often go to the Inuit carver who created the artwork. Gjoa Haven carvers have sold carvings locally to the Northern or Coop store for $500-$600, and then seen those same carvings on sale at a gallery in Yellowknife for $5,000-$6,000. (1000% mark-up). |
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It is the nature of Inuit artists to be independent thinkers and creative people. These same attributes which produce beautiful works of art, hinder the carvers from working in groups or associations, so they can get better prices and better markets for their products collectively. |
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Still many Inuit carvers earn a living and support their family through arts and crafts. Soapstone is the preferred medium for artwork in Gjoa Haven because it is soft and easy to work with and it is free. Carvers will usually travel in a group of three or four Ski-Doos and sleds to the soapstone 'quarry', located about 80 km to the southeast of the community. Using pry bars and excavating tools, they will collect a sledfull of dark green soapstone rock. Since Gjoa Haven is located on an island (King William Island) the carvers can best collect stone when the ocean is frozen and they can travel the whole distance by snowmobile. The carvers will bring the stone back to the community, put a chair and table outside of their house and plug in an extension cord. Today most Inuit carvers use power tools to carve. The tools are small hand tools and bits, similar in size to dentist's drills. The carvers usually wear a mask of some sort to protect their lungs, as a fine dust comes off the carvings when they are being sanded and drilled. |
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Health Nurses in Nunavut work more independently than nurses in a more structured hospital environment and they are often asked to perform above and beyond the call of duty. There are no resident doctors in our community, but a doctor and dentist travel throughout the central arctic on a circuit, coming to Gjoa Haven three or four times a year. The doctor/dentist will stay for a couple of weeks and treat whatever patients need attention. In the mean time the nurses are asked to administer to the medical needs of the community. Since there is no drug store or pharmacists, the nurses dispense the prescription drugs after they've made a diagnosis. They often make the decision on the care and severity of injuries and illnesses whether a patient can be treated in the community, should fly down to the hospital in Yellowknife, or needs to be medi-vacced immediately in an emergency. A nurse is on call 24 hours a day and sometimes nurses will have to travel out on the land to attend to someone who was injured or became ill at their camp. |
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In addition to their busy schedule, many nursing stations provide a range of community medical workshops and clinics. They hold clinics for community residents about safe sex, sexually transmitted diseases, pre-natal care, health and hygiene, drugs and alcohol, nutrition and a wide range of social and medical issues. While the nurses and support staff deal with most situations, a Lear jet is available to come to the community and fly emergency cases to Yellowknife, at a cost of $15,000 per flight. Some months there may be 20 medi-vac flights, some months 1 or 2. The costs of health care are high in the North, but the quality of attention and service in most communities is excellent. Although Nunavut has a small hospital, Yellowknife, in the Northwest Territories is closer, and most medical emergencies are brought there. |
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Fuel Again because of the logistics, a litre of gasoline brought on the barge might cost $2-3, but with government subsidies residents pay about $.80 a liter for gas and for home heating fuel. The tank farm has two pumps similar to gas stations anywhere in Canada and residents drive their ATV, pick-up truck or Ski-Doo to the tank farm for fill-up, and usually bring along 8-10 of the ubiquitous 5-gallon plastic jugs to supply fuel for their fishing or camping trips. Most Gjoa Haven residents have a dozen or so 5-gallon jugs in their shed, as they are essential for any trips outside the community. The tank farm and our local stores sell oil for gas-mix and maintenance. Nunavut Government is very cautious in the care and handling of petroleum products and there are many rules and regulations on community tank farms. Fuel spills of any degree are treated seriously, with the contaminated ground quite often being excavated and removed, a costly effort on frozen tundra. |
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Anglican Church |
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Catholic Church |
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Religion |
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Spiritually, traditional Inuit beliefs include reincarnation. When someone dies, his spirit is reincarnated and reborn in the next baby born to the family, or the camp. Quite often the name of the deceased is adopted by a new generation. |
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Economy |
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Many residents work for the various Nunavut Government departments, such as Health, Social Services, Education, Motor Vehicles and Justice, although many of the senior positions are staffed by professionals recruited from southern Canada. Our Hamlet Office employs 70-75 full and part-time people to administer municipal services. The third largest employer is the construction industry. For 3-4 months each year there is a construction boom in Gjoa Haven as there is in every Nunavut community, whereby, new houses, school additions, health centers, etc are built. When the weather turns cold near the end of Sept, many people are laid off and are unemployed during the winter. |
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Employment is very much tied to the seasons in Gjoa Haven and in Nunavut. During the summer months there is usually lots of work for everyone, and during the winter the community goes into hibernation, like the animals of the land. Construction is seasonal. We get the occasional camera crew and tour boat, some fishermen, sportsmen and a few tourists who come during the summer and create employment for local guides. Many government employment programs tend to operate during the summer, creating more employment. During the winter, construction slows down, the tourists and sportsmen stay away, and people tend to stay at home and hibernate. |
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The nature of 'work' is also changing. Just ten years ago, traditional skills and pursuits were essential, not just to learn how to survive on the land, but to put food on the table. With new opportunities created through Nunavut Government policies of decentralization, communities like Gjoa Haven are experiencing employment opportunities and a new demand for trained and educated Inuit. |
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Law and Order Serious crimes are not a big problem in Gjoa Haven, or throughout Nunavut. Gjoa Haven has been an alcohol-free community for 18 years and that contributes to the quality of life in many ways. When a crime is committed, perhaps an assault or a break and enter, the person is charged. If they have been drinking they will spend the night in our local jail. Once charged they are usually released on their own recognizance, and will have to attend court when the court party comes to town (about three times a year). The court party consists of a circuit judge, prosecuting and defence lawyers, court clerks and assorted support staff. They may stay one or two days in Gjoa Haven, to hear all the cases pending. People usually plead guilty and receive a small fine. If it is a repeat offender with a long record they may be sentenced to a jail term of 3-6 months. In that case the RCMP will put them in jail for the night and the next day they'll escort the prisoner to Yellowknife for transport to a correctional facility in Hay River. |
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The RCMP have two twin otters based in Nunavut, and sometimes the RCMP plane will stop in Gjoa Haven to pick up prisoners. RCMP use a lot of equipment in their detachment. Each station has a pick-up truck for patrol, a good boat and motor, a couple of Ski-Doos and ATVs, good communications equipment and a reserve of supplies on a loaded komatik.The RCMP are the central agency for coordinating search and rescue efforts, and the detachment needs to be ready when an emergency occurs. Law and order is a difficult job in a small community. You may arrest someone one day and be playing hockey with them the next night, or if it's the son of the mayor or a community leader you may be asked to attend a council meeting to defend your position. It takes a special type of character to function in the fishbowl-type life of a small community. |
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Transportation The airlines are the lifeline to the outside world. Six days a week we have a commercial carrier that travels from Yellowknife to our community. The plane carries passengers, mail, perishable groceries such as bread, milk, fruit and vegetables, and general cargo such as Ski-Doo parts, small tools and equipment. The planes change their configuration each day adjusting the number of seats to correspond with the number of passengers, so that each flight maximizes the payload of passengers and cargo. For many years we had just one airline (First Air) but in 1999 a second carrier began competing (Canadian North). Both airlines have similar routes, schedules and prices . Their routes service the central arctic communities of Cambridge Bay, Gjoa Haven, Taloyoak and Pelly Bay each day, making a return trip to and from Yellowknife, Northwest Territories. Air travel is very expensive in Nunavut, which is reflective of the high operating and maintenance costs for the airlines. |
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The average cost of barge freight is about $1.00 per kg. as compared to the average air freight of $3.20 per kg. It is much more economical to bring in supplies by barge. You can only use the barge once a year, and unfortunately for Gjoa Haven, it arrives at the end of the summer construction season. Contractors often bring in construction materials on the barge in September, have them sit all winter and start building the following year in June, when the weather warms up. |
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For inter-community travel people may fly, or occasionally a group of Gjoa Haven residents will travel by snowmobile to Taloyoak, Pelly Bay or Baker Lake for a hockey tournament or community feast. The flat frozen Arctic Ocean is a highway for Ski-Doos for 8-9 months each year. Generally those travelling by Ski-Doo will travel in a small convoy or group, stopping for tea and conversation along the way. Taloyoak is the closest community to Gjoa Haven, about 100 km to the NE, and you can travel one-way by Ski-Doo in 5-6 hours. Baker Lake is about a two-day trip by Ski-Doo as it is 300 km to the south, but it also takes two days to fly there because Baker Lake is on a different air route, a circuitous route via Yellowknife. |
Drugs/Alcohol Our community is unique in that respect. In most Nunavut communities you are permitted to import and consume alcohol, although some communities restrict the quantity of alcohol allowed. Being a 'dry' community means that if you have alcohol in your possession or on your breath you go straight to jail and are charged with a small fine (usually about $50.). Every Nunavut community has its own rules on alcohol because of its impact on families and people in the community. We have long winters in Gjoa Haven and a very young population, typical of most Nunavut communities. Too much free time and a high unemployment rate during the winter can make life boring for younger people, and increase the attraction of drugs and alcohol. Municipal by-laws may curb the use of banned substances, but never eliminate them. There have been a number of charges brought to trial for light drug use in the community, usually related to marijuana possession. Our community hasn't had an instance of 'heavy' drug use such as heroin. It seems this is more of a problem for the larger and more affluent regions. |
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Home with satellite dish Communications Many Inuit children have Nintendo 64, Gameboy and other such entertainment, as well as home computers and computer games. By June, 2000 all Nunavut communities will have another satellite dish installed which will provide a local internet server for each community. The advent of satellite technology has opened much of the Arctic to communications systems similar to any urban area in Canada or the United States. |
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Within the community and the local area many people use shortwave radios. In Gjoa Haven many households have a CB Radio to communicate with each other and to talk to Hamlet water trucks and sewage trucks for ordering a fill-up or pump-out. When people travel outside the community and go to their camp for a weekend or for the summer, quite often they bring a Red Radio, which is a crystal based unit capable of communicating over several hundred kilometers. These radios are light and durable and run on D batteries. Camps talk to each other at night when transmissions are clear and, in the event of a medical or other emergency, a red radio can be used to call for help or have a helicopter dispatched. |
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Roald Amundsen |
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Gjoa Haven The harbour became known as a haven for the Gjoa or "Gjoa Haven". After Amundsen left, the Inuit people stayed and the community was born. In the 1920's the Hudson Bay Company set up a trading post in Gjoa Haven and the community grew from there. Amundsen went on to become the first person to navigate the Northwest Passage and five years later the first person to reach the South Pole. |
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History |
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'Erebus' and 'Terror' in pack ice |
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Geography |
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The physical geography of Gjoa Haven and King William Island is very flat rolling hills, with sandy, dolomitic soil. The highest point on the 16,000 square kilometers of King William Island is a small hill, 300 m elevation above sea level. Most of the year the many rivers lakes and ponds near the community are frozen solid as is the Arctic Ocean. When you travel by Ski-Doo, it is difficult to tell if you are travelling on frozen ocean, land, river or lake. |
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Inukshuks |
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Charlie Cahill
The writer, Charlie Cahill, has lived in Gjoa Haven since 1992. He worked as Economic Development Officer for the Government of the Northwest Territories for six years, and for three years as Community Development Officer with Hamlet of Gjoa Haven. Mr. Cahill served on the Hamlet Council, the local education committee, and worked for many years with hunters and trappers associations, arts and crafts groups, and various Gjoa Haven businesses. Currently he owns Central Arctic Management Services Ltd, and operates a tour company with two Inuit partners .
"Gjoa Haven is a typical Nunavut community, demographically, economically and culturally. When first asked to write about our community, I felt it would be a straightforward academic task, detailing the geography and history of the community, and listing the services and amenities within our municipal boundary. What I failed to capture in the project is the warmth of the people, the fun we have out fishing for char or camping on the land in the summer, the affable and generous nature of the Inuit people - the feeling of family."